Update

Hi everyone!  We are still alive and well and are finally leaving Dar Es Salaam in about three hours time.  The shipping saga is long, convoluted, and still too fresh to write about without our heads steaming, so we will tell that tale once the wounds have scabbed.  We are flying to Mumbai, India and should arrive at about 5:30 tomorrow morning.  Our bikes have already arrived (thank you, Emirates!) and we hope to be reunited with them soon.  Once we're through the customs process, we hope to return to more regular blog updates.  Thanks for your patience!